Fashion is On

CLEVER, unique, shocking, beautiful, ground-breaking and trend setting are the words most often used to describe Miuccia Prada’s collections each season – but downright pretty isn’t standard.

Tonight she gave us all of the above. “It was as if she let girls loose in a really grown-up place, with really grown-up clothes and they ripped them all apart and put them all back on again their own way,” said Vogue fashion director Kate Phelan.

Which meant that dresses were fashioned from chandelier crystals and couture fabrics – silk gabardine, washed chiffon, gauze and satin were tied around the body, their edges frayed and their seams allowing cotton lining to flood out behind as the models walked

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HIS second outing on the Emilio Pucci catwalk and Norwegian designer Peter Dundas has no intention of dumbing down his take on it.

While his predecessor Matthew Williamson was occasionally accused by critics of not putting enough of his own stamp on the iconic label, Dundas was damned for quite the opposite last season – Pucci fans wanted more of what they knew and were shocked by his highly sexed, barely dressed autumn/winter 2009-10 muse.

But sticking to his guns will serve him well and will force his audience to understand what he’s trying to do. Tonight he promised us “today’s Pucci girl” – inspired by “summer, bold ‘Italianism’, a touch of Pirate, but above all, a mix of ease and precision”.

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THERE is a feeling in Milan this week that designers are going back to doing what they know best – sex-on-legs at Versace, cut-off denim at D&G, easy tailored elegance at Armani – and if anyone proved the point it was Frida Giannini for Gucci this afternoon.

Natasha Poly started us off in a tight white minidress, strapped onto her in every which way, with high, strappy shoes to match.

As always the Gucci woman is powerfully sexy in her form-fitting, flesh-baring clothes – but this is a subjective sex appeal that she imposes on those looking at her – no witness, male or female, dare objectify her.

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tribal rave party at Missoni? You bet. Proving to be quite the show woman, Angela Missoni chose as her venue a tranquil 15th-century courtyard at the Università degli Studi di Milano, with choral music and warm breezes wafting through the Renaissance porticoes as her guests took their seats.

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EVERYBODY may have hailed Donatella Versace as having come of age when she gave up the mega wattage sex-on-legs dresses and presented a slightly more demure muse some seasons ago, but today she reverted to what she really loves: tight, cutaway, glossy, studded, corsetted, shiny – and only to be worn by the sort of women she casts for her shows. This afternoon’s starred Lily Donaldson and Natasha Poly, to give an idea of the sort of standard she’s talking.

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ELABORATING on the cowboy theme we saw back in June at its menswear show, and now D&G introduced its accompanying urban cowgirls.

Ripped and shredded, there was plenty of denim in the designer’s Wild West mix; as bustier dresses with ra-ra frill skirts – teamed with neckerchiefs and fringed boots; as high waist shorts with shirts tucked in; as trompe l’oeil denim shirts, blazers and as flouncy prairie skirts.

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