Fashion is On

A purple haze descended onto the catwalks for spring/summer, proving to be the most popular of the pastels. Whether it was the washed-out violet extensions in the hair of the edgy surfer girls at Proenza Schouler or the strong lavender lids contrasting the statement red lips at Dior, or even the doubling up of metallic mauve on eyes and lips by Dick Page at Michael Kors, one thing was for sure – beauty is having an ultra-violet moment. The most wearable way to wear the trend? Look to the pretty pastel girls at Versace, where make-up artist Pat McGrath buffed a gentle wash of lilac on the eyes, all the way up to the brows, with a slick of the same coloured liner along the upper lash line for added definition.The rest of the face was kept natural and bronzed – the perfect spring canvas. What’s more, lilac is also the hottest colour for nails this season.

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Primal prints are very much in for spring/summer 2010. Fashion designers like Dries Van Noten show cased mixed prints with contrasting layers at Paris fashion week spring/summer 2010, and then Diane von Furstenberg brought the idea of tribal trend to the runway at New york fashion week spring/summer 2010 with lovely maxi dresses. While all time super fashion designer Frida Giannini presented urban Warrior style at Milan fashion week Gucci spring/summer 2010.

Here are some of the runway looks:

Via Coutorture

Balmain has some serious competition for the most must-have effortless hair in Chloé – coiffed by Guido Palau, it was exactly the Kate Moss type of nonchalance that every girl wants to have. (Tip: prep with Redken Thickening Spray and randomly tong loose sections.) In the same way, skin and make-up was healthy, dewy, glowing and utterly irresistible, under the guidance of MAC make-up artist Diane Kendal.

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Watching an Isabel Marant show isn’t so much about exercising professional judgement as making a new season shopping list. That would explain why so many fashion editors have been wearing her autumn/winter 2009 leopard or python print dress on the front row.

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HANNAH MACGIBBON’S third collection for Chloe this afternoon was a gratifying manoeuvre that proved she has found her feet and is enjoying herself there.

The Chloe girl, she said, “is a romantic traveller at heart, her trans-seasonal wardrobe reflects her nomadic spirit, with chic enduring pieces that emphasise craftsmanship and detail”.

It was good to see a Chloe girl back whom we recognised, but whose worldly travels had given her a new infectious confidence.

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Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli seem to have found their footing at Valentino. Their spring outing disclosed a design vocabulary that was every bit as feminine as Mr. Valentino’s vision and possibly more romantic. It was a beauty.

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At some shows in Paris, the seating arrangements are so cramped that you can physically feel the audience reaction in the body language running along a bench. At Givenchy, there was no possible doubt about what it was. From the very first look out—a geometrically striped black and white jersey jacket over a graphic, lozenge-fronted top and draped pants—everyone was on high alert, jostling and craning for the best possible view.

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t’s coming up on 20 years since Madonna anointed Jean Paul Gaultier an iconic brassiere engineer. Lest anyone forget his once-provocative contribution to the fashion landscape, Gaultier anchored his spring collection.

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Anyone who thinks tough chic was an Eighties invention, all high glitz and déclassé, needs a brush-up on film noir, examples of which typically feature a strong-shouldered, holds-her-own kind of woman of sharp tongue and sharper mind who extracts herself from countless perilous, shadowy situations — while looking incredibly chic. John Galliano devoted his spring show to the queen bee of such gals, Lauren Bacall, and her trench-wearing other half, Humphrey Bogart.

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